Invasions Of Mallorca
By Kim Davis, Thu Dec 8th

The island of Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic chain,which lies off the eastern Mediterranean coast of Spain. Thanksto its rugged topography, balmy climate, and old worldarchitectural charm, Mallorca has been a favorite of Europeantourists since the 1960's. Many Americans have found their wayto Mallorca as well, but Americans do not have the advantage ofthe cheap air and rail fares that the Europeans enjoy. Thehistory of the Balearics is rich and culturally diverse. Theislands' numerous protected ports have made them a logical stopalong the trade routes of sailors for centuries, consequentlythe influences of African, Asian, and diverse European peoplesis seen throughout the indigenous culture.

The 1960's saw a massive influx of tourists from first France,and then England and finally Germany as dictator FranciscoFranco relaxed his foreign policy in the latter years of hislife. On Mallorca, the first wave of tourists to fall in lovewith and "invade" the island was French. Since the Mallorquinpeople never really accepted Spanish rule, and still considerthemselves first Mallorquin, and second Catalan, accepting theirFrench neighbors was not a long stretch. The Mallorquin people,by nature are very capitalistic; therefore, though they grumbleabout the foreigners, they quickly learn their languages andfind ways to take their money.

On a larger and more unattractive scale, the "English invasion"which came in the late 60's was accompanied by under- regulatedconstruction of budget tourist accommodations, and nightclubs.Fortunately this budget class tourist tends to seek sun, sand,and sex, and they have proven to be satisfied with one or twoinfamous coastal towns designed for their pleasure. Many of theyoung English tourists on package holidays spend their entirefortnight visit drinking and chasing the opposite sex in thetown of Magaluf, and never venture any further. This arrangementworked relatively well for the islanders for 25 years. The uglytourists rarely encroached on their homes. The government ofMallorca, to their credit, learned a lesson from this period ofunchecked development, and has since become quite strict aboutnew construction. No longer does one see the poorly constructedhigh-rise eyesores of 30 years ago. These unattractive buildingsare gradually being renovated or replaced.

The wealthy, well-healed tourists carved their niche

on thedramatic Northwestern coast from Estellencs through Valledmossa,Deia, and Soller. Here, care was taken to preserve the beautifulold fincas, and a number of them became small exclusive hotelsand resorts. This area was always more exclusive than the moreaccessible regions of the island because of the Serra deTramuntana Mountain range which divides it from the rest of theisland. Up until the late 1990's when the EEC began to makemoney available for major development, even the major roadsleading to the Northwestern coastal towns were very narrow andpoorly maintained. The trip to Deia from the airport at Palmatook over an hour even though the actual distance is only about30 km as the crow flies. Now, however, new roads have madetravel much easier.

Today Mallorca is home to quite a few expatriate residents fromEngland, and America, but many of these long-term residents areleaving due to the current "German Invasion." As European Unionbecame a certainty in the 90's, Germans afraid of loosing moneywith the equalization of the European currencies began to floodMallorca spending exorbitant sums on properties and businesseswhere the rate of exchange worked in their favor. The net resultof all this German investment was rapid, massive inflation onthe island. Now, less than ten years later, no native Mallorquincan afford to buy property. On entering any restaurant, foreignguests now are addressed in German first. Upon learning that theguest is not German, many waiters will visibly relax, and if theguest speaks Spanish or Mallorquin, the waiter will oftenindulge in a bit of good-natured "German-bashing."

The negative effects of tourism long ago seeped through the veryfabric of life on Mallorca. Now, however, with the dramaticescalation of prices the locals can no longer afford to buyhouses. Maintenance work for those who already own their housescan only be done at outlandish prices since wages have increasedto compensate. The Germans have been chilly neighbors,fortifying their properties with impenetrable walls to keepprying eyes away.

Now, however, the financial advantages for the Germans haveevaporated, and the other expatriate residents are expectingproperty prices to return to a more affordable level.

About the author:(c) 2003, Kim Davis Spent 6 years as a resident of Mallorca, andloved every minute of it. She is the author of the highlyacclaimed "The Yachtie Bible: How to Get Paid While Traveling inStyle." Visit www.kpdavis.com or www.yachtie.net for details.